30. create iNat observation I open Google Photos, press drag across the pix I want to upload observation, click on share icon,click on the iNaturalist icon.

While that is a good way to get a camera app to record more accurate coordinates, it shouldn’t be any different than using iNat and waiting for the accuracy to get down to an acceptable level. Theoretically iNat’s doing exactly the same thing as the Google Maps app: waiting for the operating system to provide better information as it triangulates from cell towers and receives better signals from more GPS satellites. The main difference is that iNat will stop once it hits what it think is an appropriate level (I think it’s 5m or something).

DSLR and Garmin Dakota 20. Then I use Nikon’s ViewNX-i software to do the same as Lightroom does

I almost always use my Google Pixel 2XL stock phone cam, which automatically records the GPS coordinates and works seamlessly with Google Maps and Google Photos. In the stock camera settings one must toggle on “Save locations.” In my Google Photos app settings I toggle on “Remove geo location (from photos & videos that you share by link, but not by other means).” When I’m out in the field I simply take photos with my phone cam. Later, when I want to create a single iNat observation I open Google Photos, press and drag across the pix I want to upload to my observation, click on the share icon, then click on the iNaturalist icon. The pix and the location info is uploaded and the iNat observation opens up in the iNat app. I don’t select automatic upload in the iNat app. so I can first work on preparing all the observations, and then when I’m ready to post the observations and make them public I can either click on “upload,” or I can simply press, hold, and drag down on the screen to initiate the upload process. Recently I reinstalled my iNat app (as I do somewhat regularly whenever it gets buggy and I can’t fix it any other way), and I forgot to re-do my settings. I noticed the GPS coordinates were not automatically uploading to the iNat app. I was able to open Google Photos, open one photo that was used in the observation, click on the 3 dots in the upper right of the pic to open up a menu, click on “i” (info), see the little map with the location pin, click on that map to open it in Google Maps, and then copy & paste the GPS coordinates from Google Maps into the “Location notes” in the iNat app, and thus, manually add them that way after-the-fact. That was a bit of a pain, but not as time consuming as it took you to read that process, especially after I did it a few times. Better to have all your settings correct before you make your observations so that’s all automated!

Currently I’m using my Garmin Fenix 3 watch for tracking. I use it as a fitness tracker and I’m also able to export the .gpx tracks if I want to geotag my photos.
It’s really easy with Geosetter 3 for Windows. I download the .gpx tracks into the same folder as the pictures. That way I just open the folder in Geosetter, tick the .gpx track, select all pictures and press CTRL+G to automatically geotag all pictures.
It’s a really simple process!
You need to be careful if you’re travelling and pass different timezones.

In the past I’ve used a dedicated cheap GPS logger (i-Blue 747A+) to track my travels and geotag my pictures. The battery lasted much longer than my Fenix watch, but I can easily get through a day with it when I reduce the GPS logging rate.

Currently I’m using my Garmin Fenix 3 watch for tracking. I use it as a fitness tracker and I’m also able to export the .gpx tracks if I want to geotag my photos.
It’s really easy with Geosetter 3 for Windows. I download the .gpx tracks into the same folder as the pictures. That way I just open the folder in Geosetter, tick the .gpx track, select all pictures and press CTRL+G to automatically geotag all pictures.
It’s a really simple process!
You need to be careful if you’re travelling and pass different timezones.

In the past I’ve used a dedicated cheap GPS logger (i-Blue 747A+) to track my travels and geotag my pictures. The battery lasted much longer than my Fenix watch, but I can easily get through a day with it when I reduce the GPS logging rate

urate and doesn’t jump around the way the default location services do. I then sync the tracklogs with the photos in lightroom, which is just a couple clicks.

I also just discovered that the nice old Garmin Etrex vista H I have that I had stopped using since Garmin’s windows 10 software has stopped supporting it (I can’t believe they would do that for dozens of models that are still out there in the world working perfectly) will cooperate with the free software EasyGPS to download GPX files to do the same tagging process, so I’ll probably go back to using that instead of my phone for long days. If anyone has an old GPS sitting around that isn’t officially supported on their current OS, EasyGPS can probably make it usable again.

locations to make an “occupied” polygon. This allows me to map multiple species in a single survey even when they partially overlap.

I have several small gps loggers but my favorite is the Holux M-241. It has a display that shows the time to seconds so I can sync my photo times very accurately by taking a photo of the clock. I’ve been keeping track and my Pentax K-x clock drifts about 30 seconds per month while the K-70 clock drifts by about 10 seconds per month. The Holux will also run for about 36 hours on a single rechargeable AA battery, my phone can’t even come close in remote areas where it’s struggling to find a signal.

I use Picmeta Photo Tracker to geotag after I’ve adjusted the photo times in Picasa. Picasa has a nice feature that lets you adjust the time of a group of photos by setting the actual time of the first photo and it calculates the difference and applies it to the rest. If the first photo is the picture of the clock on my gps it’s very easy to get it right.

GPS Essentials works well enough for me.

Nice video! That’s very similar to my workflow. I use the free Cyclemeter 2 app on my iPhone to track where I go and I geotag my DSLR photos using the free Darktable 4. It’s a great combo.

If I realise later that my DSLR clock had drifted off time by many seconds, I can also add that offset to Darktable when I geotag to get the exact locations. It also lets me specify the timezone when I’m geotagging, which is helpful if I’ve come back from a trip overseas and have a big bunch of photos waiting to geotag.

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OK, here is how you can see your options: In the Community ID box, click "compare", then set the Place to "South America", and for Taxon, type in Calycopis, you'll get: these 4 matches in that genus: C.origo, C.isobeon, C.caulonia, C.cerata. But then try "Lycaenidae" (the larger family), and you'll get Ministrymon azia, and Strymon melinus added to that list of 6 very similar species. You may need a more local expert.
https://www.inaturalist.org/observations/identotron?observation_id=9344400&taxon=47157#establishment_means=&order=&place=97389&taxon=47923
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Posted on April 16, 2019 08:29 PM by ahospers ahospers

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